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This is the part of sewing I don’t like

M2818I’ve spent the day–off and on–making pattern adjustments. I’m using McCall’s 2818 (now out of print) which is a Palmer/Pletsh “Learn to Fit a Full Bust” pattern. I used my high bust to determine size. Otherwise, the shoulders would not fit.

When I put the tissue on the fitting double, it was very obvious that my low bustline was causing all sorts of fitting issues. Because the pattern was pulling at my bust, the side seam couldn’t reach where it was supposed to reach.

I’ve always used the Singer method of lowering the bust apex (slash and spread) but I thought I’d give the P/P method a try because I am trying to learn new techniques. As you can see from the photo, I needed to lower the apex by about 2 inches. My index finger is where the apex is on the pattern and my thumb is where the apex is on the dress form.

I think I will stick to the Singer method. This last photo is where I’ve stopped to take a break. It shows the slashing I did for the full bust adjustment. I still need to make the slashes for the “darts”. Again, the Singer method seems easier to do–just add 1/4 ” for each cup size above a B, but I’ll make a final determination after I sew it up.

Okay, time to get back to it since I’m working at the kitchen table and My Honey will be coming home from work, soon, and will be hungry for dinner.

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